Will Storing a Loaded Magazine Cause Spring Fatigue?

Will Storing a Loaded Magazine Cause Spring Fatigue

No, storing a loaded magazine will not cause spring fatigue in a modern and well-made magazine as the spring is built to be compressed for extended periods of time.  If you have an older firearm or antiques, and all of the parts are original, there is a chance the spring can be fatigued because of the older age and usage, or lower quality materials.  It likely is not from storing a loaded magazine.

The majority of spring fatigue is a result of the compression and expansion of the spring while it is in use vs. a loaded magazine being static.  This is similar to a plank of wood contracting and expanding as it absorbs and releases moisture.  Over time the piece of wood will begin to warp, cup, or crack.  

All technology wears down whether it is the spring in a magazine or a mattress, a gear in a truck, or a computer’s motherboard as it degrades.  Without proper care and downtime by letting it stay compressed or expanded, you may speed up the time until the spring needs to be replaced.  

Some signs that the spring in your magazine is fatigued and needs replaced include:

  • The loader is not feeding as quickly or as accurately
  • The spring is not as elastic or has changed its resting shape
  • Chips and cracks in the follower (if the magazine has not been dropped and has been handled properly)

Oddly enough, loading and unloading the magazine over and over because you’re worried about spring fatigue will likely cause the spring to degrade and wear out faster as you’re now causing it to contract and expand more frequently.  By keeping the spring in its ideal position of being fully loaded or unloaded, you can expect it to feed cartridges more reliably when in use. 

All magazine springs need replaced from time to time, and each manufacturer has a different recommended period for when to replace the spring.  Depending on the make and model some may say 1,000 rounds, and others may recommend 5 years and 5,000 rounds.  You’ll find conflicting information on the different forums, but the telltale sign is when rounds are not feeding in as expected.

While storing a loaded magazine may not cause excess wear and tear on the spring, it could lead to other issues including:

  • The feedlip deforming from the constant pressure of the magazine
  • A potential increase for moisture to get trapped in, especially from concealed carry when you sweat or taking the magazine from cold to warm (and vice versa) climates, which can lead to corrosion as the moisture stays against corrosive materials
  • Someone finding their way into your gun safe, including children or potential threats, and having access to a loaded weapon with extra rounds

The good news is that storing a loaded magazine won’t cause spring fatigue because the spring will not be contracting and expanding, but storing loaded firearms can lead to other issues with the firearm and potential safety hazards.

Will Off-gassing From Holsters in Safes Corrode Firearms?

Off-gassing is a natural process where a manufactured item releases gasses or volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that were trapped during the manufacturing process including gun holsters, mats or carpeting materials inside a gun safe, and even insulation.  Off-gassing releases these compounds or causes them to build up when:

  • Heat is present and causes them to evaporate.  This is similar goldenrods heatting the air in a safe to reduce moisture by making it circulate through and out of the gun safe.
  • There is a lack of ventilation and the VOCs build up vs. circulating out of the space or through the vents of the gun safe.
  • The structure of the item begins the natural process of degrading and wearing down.
  • Items are exposed to UV light or radiation which begins breaking the chemical bonds of the material releasing the VOCs.

It is a natural process for manufactured materials and you cannot stop it, but you can prevent the VOCs from condensing by having proper ventilation and air circulation.  And that leaves the question, can a build up of VOCs from off-gassing hurt the items inside your safe or cause corrosion?

The short answer is yes, some VOCs may cause corrosion for synthetic rubbers, surface coatings, textiles, and resinsThis study from the Polish Journal of Environmental Sciences measured more than 20 VOCs that come from natural upholstery leathers, which can be similar to the ones used for a gun holster.  The list includes formaldehyde, toluene, and xylenes which all have the ability to corrode metals like the ones firearms and gun safes are made from.

The good news is that if your safe has proper ventilation and air circulation, the VOCs can escape and will likely not cause damage, at least not as quickly.  The damage will take time to happen, and you have plenty of opportunities to stop it, so don’t panic.  You can store your holster in your gun safe for a couple days and it won’t off-gas enough VOCs to damage your firearms or the safe.  

With that said, storing manufactured goods for extended periods of time and with cheap or bad materials like padding and mats that off-gas, and without proper ventilation, can lead to corrosion.  Some gun safe manufacturers use insulation which off-gasses and can corrode safes, so always read the product specifications and materials used if this is a concern.

Off-gassing is a naturally occurring process for manufactured goods, and can be amplified by storing more manufactured goods like treated leather inside a gun safe.  As long as you have ventilation and check for issues like corrosion, you should be fine.

Reasons to Never Store a Loaded Gun in a Safe

Reasons to Never Store a Loaded Gun in a Safe

There’s always going to be a debate in the forums and at shows on whether you should or should not store a loaded gun in a gun safe.  For most weapons owners, the answer is always no, you should not store a loaded gun in a safe.

There’s plenty of arguments to be made for both sides, but a few of them stand out for us. This does not mean you cannot have a loaded magazine, and in a few situations there may be no choice but to lock up a loaded weapon, just make sure there is no cartridge in the chamber and that you remove it from the safe and unload the weapon as soon as possible.

Different Floors and Large Capacity for Collections

Some gun safes are for storage including collections and for hunting vs. home defense.  These tend to be larger gun safes as capacity with protection is the goal of storage for this situation.  These larger safes are also not likely to be stored near or in your bedroom, or even on the same floor as where you sleep since they are heavy and need additional support.

If the gun safe is filled with loaded weapons and an intruder breaks in, you just lost valuable time to get yourself to safety as they now have an arsenal ready to go.  When the weapons are not loaded and ammo is separate, you buy yourself a bit more time to escape.  If the weapons are loaded, your first goal should be to get to safety and not to your gun safe.

Cars and Trucks

Vehicle safes are for quick access, being able to defend yourself from animals when camping, and potential human threat situations.  But they are also accessible by passengers in your vehicle.  If it is a keypad lock, it only takes your child one time to learn the code and a bit of curiosity to gain access.

Yes, there is a feeling of security and safety knowing the firearm is there when you need it.  But there is also a high risk as it becomes accessible to anyone with the code.  This is also why you have concealed carry, you can have your firearm ready to go when you need it most with the car safe for backup storage or an alternative.

Bedside and Safety

One of the best arguments for keeping a loaded gun in a gun safe is bedside and under the bed safes for protection.  There are patterns as to where burglars go first when breaking into a home, and the master bedroom is a top spot.  

Having the extra seconds without needing to load the firearm matters, just like the time to unlock a safe.   With that said, loading a magazine once you’ve trained your muscle memory will only take one to two seconds and that should be enough time for you to get to a protective position if you cannot escape. 

We’re not going to minimize the severity of an intruder situation, but if it helps with a peace-of-mind, according to Arizona State University and the Bureau of Justice statistics, most burglaries occur without people being home as intruders do not want a confrontation.  65% of the invasions were from people the victim knew, and that is where the loaded vs. unloaded debate comes in.

If the person is someone you know, they may learn where you hide the key or your combinations.  What happens if they go to the room knowing that is the loaded gun and access it before you can.  The same applies to your significant other, they will likely know how to access the firearm and in these two cases the extra seconds work against you.

Corrosion

Leaving ammunition in a firearm increases the chances of corrosion making your firearm that is meant for protection or hunting unsafe to handle.  It isn’t just corrosion from old ammunition that contains potassium chlorate or other corrosive materials, the corrosion of the firearm can come from not cleaning:

  • Salt air and water if you had the firearm with you while hunting, hiking, or being near the shore
  • Residue from practice shooting at the range
  • No lubrication to act as a barrier to the rust and debris

Corroded firearms are hazardous, and storing them loaded with ammunition will likely increase the speed at which they corrode.  

There are arguments to be made for both sides, but it is recommended to empty the chamber and always store your firearms without being loaded.  The magazine can be ready to go, you’ll buy yourself extra time if the safe is in a different room, and you’ll keep tiny hands and curious visitors off of your firearms.

Yes, Using a Toothbrush to Clean a Gun is Ok

you can use a toothbrush to clean a gun

Using an old toothbrush that has no residue on it can be a great way to clean rust or debris off of the ornamental features on the outside of pistols or revolvers, and some of the decorative smaller areas on long guns like rifles and shotguns.  A toothbrush is not large enough to be able to reach each area of the barrel in a long gun which is why a bore brush or nylon cleaning brush is always going to be better than a toothbrush for long guns.

Pro-tip: Do not attach a toothbrush to a stick or piece of metal to clean the barrel of a rifle or shotgun as it could fall off and bristles can come loose and create a hazard in the firearm.

You should not use a toothbrush on any of the areas inside the firearm or that are used for firing the gun.  This includes the inside of the barrel, the chambers, firing mechanisms, and the magazines.  

A toothbrush is not designed for cleaning a gun, it’s for removing plaque and buildup off your teeth.  Depending on what the bristles are made of they could fall into the chamber or barrel, melt against it under heat, or clog the barrel leading to multiple types of issues when using the firearm.  If thread or cloth gets inside, especially in a magazine, it could jam it and create a very dangerous situation.

One other issue you may run into if you use a toothbrush to clean or polish a gun is the bristles are softer and more bendable than a typical nylon brush.  This may increase the amount of time you spend cleaning your firearms.  Some people find the process soothing and as a way to relax, so this could be a great option for them.  But remember, the toothbrush is not designed for cleaning a gun, so you may end up doing damage to it.

Pro-tip: If you do use a toothbrush to clean your gun, gun oils and lubricants tend to be thicker than a WD-40, so opt for a thicker lubricant so the looser bristles of the toothbrush can support it better.

It’s always a good idea to use products designed specifically for cleaning your firearms like a bore brush made from nylon, bronze, brass, or other material designed for removing excess powder and cleaning your guns.  It isn’t a good idea to clean your gun with a toothbrush, but you may be able to polish outside and ornamental features with one.

What a Carbine is, Its Uses, & Storage Needs.

carbine guns

A carbine is a type of rifle with a shorter barrel than a traditional long gun and has multiple uses including sports, hunting, and by militaries for defense. Due to the shorter length of the barrel compared to traditional long guns, carbines are easier to maneuver in tight areas and are easier to carry on your body.  

The shorter length of the barrel also makes them a bit lighter than a standard rifle or shotgun, and easier to handle. This can make carbines better for new shooters, people that are 50 and over, or don’t want to carry a heavier firearm with them, especially if they have to camp or hike through the woods for hunting.  

The shorter barrel and lighter weight could increase recoil (depending if the firearm is gas powered, cartridge power, muzzle break, etc…), so make sure to test and configure the carbine properly if recoil is a concern.  

We recommend the following as a starting point to reduce recoil on a carbine:

  • Cartridge type – The type of cartridge significantly impacts the amount of recoil a firearm experiences, as the bullet’s weight and velocity, determined by the cartridge design, directly influences the force of recoil generated when fired.
  • Gas system – A gas system helps manage the recoil force by redirecting it through the mechanism instead of directly impacting the shooter’s hand.
  • Muzzle brake – A muzzle brake reduces recoil by redirecting the expanding propellant gases exiting the barrel to counteract the recoil force.

There is no shortage of options for a carbine as most of the popular gun manufacturers produce a carbine model.  Some of our favorite carbines include:

  • Sig Sauer MPX K  
  • Kel-Tec SUB-2000 
  • Beretta CX4 Storm 
  • Ruger PC Carbine 
  • Springfield Armory Saint Victor 9mm Carbine 
  • Colt AR9 
  • PSA AKV – Technically classified as a pistol due to barrel length and configuration, but can be considered a carbine.
  • Smith & Wesson M&P FPC – A blowback-operated carbine, but not beholden to the AR-pattern. 

Carbines can be stored in any long gun safe as there will be enough space available length wise compared to handgun safes which are likely not long enough for the barrel.  The biggest difference between the way you store a carbine vs. a standard rifle is the shorter barrel may need a different holder or grip as the mechanism that holds the firearm in place may not be short enough to grip it allowing for it to fall over or shift while in the gun safe

Our Agile™ line of gun safes allow for modular storage and will work perfect for your collection.

You’ve likely also seen carbine rifles and pistol caliber carbines in movies, music videos, video games, and with the military. This is because they’re equally visually striking as they are easy-to-use for sports, hunting, and defense. Now you know what a carbine is, why they are popular types of long guns, and have some options to help make a decision if you’re looking to purchase one.

5 Pro Tips to Firearm Storage in Saltwater Environments

5 Pro Tips to Firearm Storage in Saltwater Environments

In order for your firearms to be able to protect you, or function properly on a hunting trip, you need to protect them.  Humidity can cause corrosion on both a gun safe and a firearm, and when you add salt to the moisture in the air you add to the potential damage.  There are numerous studies like this one that show the salt in the air can increase corrosion on metals like carbon steel, and this one which watched as wind deposited salt across a large stadium and monitored corrosion.

In addition to the normal corrosion from moisture, the air deposits salts which work as an electrolyte and modify the movement of electrons more easily than in non-saltwater droplets.  Corrosion is in part a result of electrons being moved via the electrolyte according to the United States Naval Academy, so the salt air may be acting as an additional conduit.

But that doesn’t mean you cannot take or protect your firearms in a vacation home or while on a trip, you just have to modify how you store them to protect them from the salt air.  Here are five tips you can use whether you own or rent out a vacation home with a gun safe, or you’re about to enjoy a trip with friends or family.

5. Clean and Lubricate Regularly

If the gun is stored off-season while you’re not using the home, or you are saltwater hunting for fowl, make sure to clean and lube your firearm regularly.  It is especially important to do this if you’ll be leaving the firearm after the season ends.  The lubricant acts as a protective barrier which may help with protection while you’re using the firearm, but will definitely help after if you don’t have time to wipe it.

Salt and humidity will corrode faster, so getting it all out and reapplying the lubricant post cleaning is vital before storing the firearm in saltwater air environments.

4. A Case in Your Safe

If the firearm will be stored in a salt air environment for long periods of time like a hunting lodge or vacation rental you visit once or twice a year, or in a gun room for your armory or collection, invest in a good case.  Gun safes have vents to help keep air flowing which reduces corrosion.  This also lets the salt air in.

Whether you have a gun room or a gun safe, find a weather proof and moisture proof case for the firearms you will be leaving stored.  If you clean and lubricate to remove the salt and moisture while adding a protective barrier, and then store in a water and air tight case, there’s less chance of the firearm gaining exposure to the salt air while it is being stored.

3. Invest in an HVAC Dehumidifier for Your Home

There’s a case to be made for using dehumidifiers in your gun safe, but when you live in saltwater air environments they won’t do much good.  The inside of the gun safe may be regulated, but it won’t protect your safe or your home.  If humidity is an issue, investing in a dehumidifier for your HVAC system will help to regulate the air in the home.

This works to reduce the humidity in your home and some systems have filtration that can remove larger particles of salt with the humidity.  None are going to be perfect, but any reduction is a good way to protect your home and your firearms with their storage devices.

2. Air Purifiers

HVAC upgrades are expensive and not always an option.  There is good news if you’re like most of us, some air purifiers are able to reduce and remove some of the salt from the air in your home.  They are much less expensive and can be added to the room your firearms are stored in.  

On top of these you can upgrade your air filters from the current heat pumps and HVAC systems that can handle tiny particles.  Sea salt particles in aerosols can be less than 0.2 μm according to Science Direct, so choose filters that can handle tiny particle filtration. 

1. Change Your Ammunition

We all have our favorite cartridges and ammo, but some can cause more corrosion than others.  It isn’t practical to clean the barrel after every use, and you may be in a rush before putting the firearm away and not have time.  

Check the packaging and manufacturer’s website for primer that does not contain potassium chlorate as this is the main culprit of corrosion.  Any small change you can make when your firearms are going to be in salt air environments helps, and this is one more that is in your control.

You cannot control the salt in the air as it is nature, but you can work to reduce the saltwater air that can get to your firearms and how often you clean and lubricate them to remove salt and add a protective barrier.  With proper precaution and maintenance, you’ll be enjoying your firearms even in salt air environments for years to come.

Corrosion Can Impact Guns in a Gun Safe

Corrosion in a gun safe happens because of the materials used to construct the lining between the metal walls, the carpeting on the floor and shelves, and other chemicals that go into the construction.  With that said, all gun safes can corrode if not properly cleaned and stored, just like guns rust and the rust can be removed from the gun.  

Some good news, rust cannot spread from one metal to another.  But if one metal is rusting or corroding, the cause of the corrosion will likely impact other similar metals, and that is why you want to treat the cause of corrosion the minute it is detected.  If the safe is corroding, you can expect your guns to start rusting too.

When guns corrode they become hazards as the barrel can weaken, the bolt and receiver may get damaged, and there is a risk for an explosion if pressure cannot be released properly and propel the cartridge forward. 

This is why it is important to check your gun safe for corrosion just like you check your guns for rust.  And this starts with knowing what to look for by understanding the main causes of corrosion, and proper care.  

The Cause of Gun Safe Corrosion

There are four culprits when it comes to chemical reactions that corrode a gun safe.

  • Formaldehyde (CH2O): Used in drywall manufacturing, formaldehyde is a dispersing agent in drywall slurry. These agents vaporize in your safe, creating a potentially caustic environment for metal and wood. Formaldehyde is also present in the adhesive used for carpet interiors and causes significant corrosion, with a corrosion rate over 1.0 mm/year in carbon steel. 
  • Elemental Sulfur (S): Found in drywall, particularly from China, sulfur reacts with humidity to form hydrogen sulfide and sulfuric acid. The acid attacks metals differently, but in the end it is about corrosion. 

    Carbon steel for example has some protection as it forms hydrogen gas and ferrous ions forming a protective layer on the safe, while stainless steel’s protection is dependent on the temperature and concentration level of the acid.
    how sulfur changes to sulfuric acid and corrodes a gun safe

  • Pyrite (Iron Sulfide): Common in gypsum, pyrite reacts with oxygen and water to form iron oxide-hydroxide (rust) and sulfuric acids. Pyrite in drywall can lead to rapid gun rust. 
    how pyrite changes to sulfuric acid to corrode metals and gun safes
  • Ferrooxidans Bacteria: This metal-eating bacteria lives on the pyrite in drywall, breaking it down into iron hydroxide and sulfur-based acids. The bacteria can also consume other metals, exacerbating corrosion. 

As you can see this is a metal gun safe issue, it is literally from the inside out.  It is also why you don’t always see concerns about gun safe corrosion in wood and glass display cabinets, or the old shotgun above the fireplace.  Although moisture in general can lead to rusting, these storage and display types have different types of corrosion problems.

How to Detect Gun Safe Corrosion

Spotting corrosion in your gun safe is easy when you know what to look for including:

  • A sulfur (earthy) smell once you open the door or get close
  • Rust inside or on the outside
  • Discoloration of the materials and metal

Why Gun Safes Use Materials That Cause Corrosion

If you’re wondering why a gun safe manufacturer would use these materials knowing they can cause corrosion, the answer is simple.  It’s cheaper and lighter.

Traditional safes are based on the original Silas Herring design and used thick outer steel, thin inner steel, and plaster or cement in the middle. This design was abandoned in the 1980s in favor of cheaper, lighter materials. The result is the modern gun safe: a thin-walled steel box lined with drywall and carpeted over.

When these changes occurred UL (Underwriters Laboratories) created a new classification. Class RSC–Residential Security Container. The RSC is the standard gun safe sold in most stores throughout America.

If you have purchased a gun safe made after 1980 it is most likely a UL Class RSC. It is drywall based and subject to all the corrosion issues above. Your best defense against corrosion is still well-cleaned and well-lubricated firearms combined with proper gun safe care. 

Pro-tip: Open the door regularly and let your safe air out. This will reduce the corrosive sulfur compound buildup. Dehumidifiers slow the process by lowering humidity, but they don’t stop it.

How to Prevent Corrosion in a Gun Safe

The first thing to do is avoid buying gun safes with drywall or carpeting. Instead, consider safes that follow the Herring double-walled steel design, offering better security and modest fire protection. However, these safes are expensive, starting at around $6,000. 

Alternatively, steel cabinets can be a viable option. They provide similar security and fire protection as drywall-based gun safes but without as many of the corrosion issues. Smaller, modular steel cabinets offer flexibility and can be easily secured throughout a home, providing quick access in emergencies. 

You may also want to try a vented gun safe. This style is designed with ventilation systems that allow for better air circulation, significantly reducing humidity levels inside the safe. 

By lowering humidity, the risk of moisture-induced corrosion is minimized. Additionally, vented gun safes help in dissipating harmful gasses and vapors that can emanate from materials like drywall and carpet adhesives. The controlled environment ensures that the internal atmosphere remains less corrosive, thereby extending the lifespan of your firearms. 

Corrosion is an issue that impacts gun safes, and when they are impacted the guns inside are likely at risk too.  This is why you want to check your safe regularly for any signs of corrosion and invest in a properly built safe using the Silas Herring design if corrosion is a concern.  And you can shop our selection of gun safes built to keep your “guns safe”.

Corrosion Can Impact Guns in a Gun Safe

The Fire Rating on Your Gun Safe Doesn’t Matter

gun safe fire ratings don't matter

The fire ratings on gun safes are not a measure of security or protection, they are a measure of how much drywall or filler is loaded in between the metal outside and the inside of your gun safe.  The filler material does not effectively stop a burglar from cutting the safe, only the type of metal and the quality of the material does.  

The time and number on the fire rating are how much time the safe can last at a specific temperature before the inside gets over 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  So if you see 2 hours (120 minutes) at 2,000 then your safe will in theory protect the contents inside for up to two hours at a fire burning 2,000 degrees. And although this sounds great, it isn’t very relevant anymore.

If your home is on fire and it is hot enough to melt a safe, your guns will be warped and not salvageable.  This was an issue in the early 1900’s when firefighters were not able to get to the home in a timely manner.  That’s why two fire rating companies formed, there was a need back then.  We go over this a bit later below.

In modern times, fire response teams are more efficient and the chances of your home burning to the ground or being on fire long enough to impact your gun safe are next to zero.  

Home fires are still very common, but response times from the fire departments are fast.  There are also a ton of products that you can purchase to put a fire out before it spreads which have reduced the amount of homes burning to the ground.  Here’s a graph from the US Fire Administration showing recent declines from 2013 to 2022.

trend of residential fires

Still concerned?  Don’t be, you can check your own risk levels.

Most cities and towns have a local website where you can find your fire department’s average response time to evaluate your risk.  The goal set by The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) Standard 1710 is to have a full response time from call to arrival of 5 minutes and 20 seconds allowing for ample time to get your house fire extinguished.  This in turn means your gun safe will likely be unaffected.  And you can find ABC fire extinguishers on sale pretty inexpensively online if yours has expired.

That’s the bottom line and why the fire rating on a gun safe in many situations is irrelevant.  You may want to do some digging when the fire rating seems too good to be true. 

Gun safe ratings can be done by the manufacturer or by a third party, so it is important to not rely only on the rating, but who gave it.

Underwriters Laboratories and Intertek ETL are the two most trusted third parties when it comes to assigning firing ratings on gun safes.   Both organizations are over a century old and have been a 3rd party resource for consumers like you.

There is no fireproof room in a home, but kitchens catch fire more often than others because you’re working with fire, heat, and flammables, and they’re followed by bedrooms and other spaces where electrical fires occur from overused and under maintained sockets.  Kitchen fires are normally stopped, literally in the pot, before they can spread.  It still counts statistically as a fire, but because they get under control quickly it does not spread.

If your gun safe is furthest away from these hazards, and the fire department can make it in time, the fire rating may save the day if the room only gets touched without heating up too much.  But again, it is unlikely a higher fire rating will help because if the fire gets to the point protection is needed, chances are it is already too late.

Now you know the history of fire ratings and gun safes, what to look for, and that the ratings likely won’t help or hurt your guns as the chances of needing a safe that withstands intense heat are slim to none.  But if you want that extra bit of assurance, check out our gun safes here at SecureIt.  We have options that meet all your needs.